Documentaries // Mademoiselle C

Considering Carine Roitfeld is basically my life goals, style inspiration and all-time idol in general, I thought I'd better mention her and her documentary as amongst my influences.
I must have genuinely watched this several hundred times, and that is no exaggeration. I could probably tell you the script word for word...  perhaps that isn't something to boast about though.
Not only is it an excellent starting point to those wanting to not only learn how the fashion world works and runs, but it supplies numerous points of research for anyone wishing to learn more of the influences and names within the world of high fashion. Don't get me wrong, there is one or two cringe lines, Stephan Gan claiming "it needs to be more... fashion" in a photoshoot for example, but other than that there is only love for it as a superb resource and documentary.

The journey of the creation of CR, Roitfeld's fashion magazine, documented by Fabien Constant, addresses the former Vogue Paris editor-in-cheif quoting Conde Nast in 2011 to start her own publication;CR Fashion Book. It's insightful to the industry of high fashion and although not accurate in representing all that starting up a magazine would consist of for any ordinary person, and perhaps to those of the highest scrutiny who know everything in fashion and aren't quite as in total admiration of Carine, it still goes to show the problems involved and give light to what her roles consist of, if only briefly addressed. In all it does give an inspiring look into the business and creative partnership of an enterprise, and acts as a reminder of how the most resonant sartorial fantasies begin with personal obsessions and inspiration. 

"Carine is my ideal woman... she has become a legend in her own time" Tom Ford

Using Carine as the subject for communicating the romance of fashion is an inspired choice, she epitomises re-invention in this role and highlights the necessity to be able to juggle a great number of projects with enthusiasm in order to be successful in this industry. 

For some help I've listed most of the people of importance included in this documentary (but this does not mean that you should not go and watch it now):

[Apologies for any spelling mistakes]

On a more personal and self-reflective note, I find that if I'm not filling absolutely every minute with one thing or another to in order to stay productive, reach the high standard and career goals I set for myself, I tend to be tough on myself about it. I find myself thriving under the pressure I put on myself and number of commitments I make, it pushes me each time and I never fail to surprise myself with what I achieve. I have to pay for this year's academic fees myself. I'm working a minimum of 20 hours a week, in addition to holding the post of Academic Representative, plus all the associated commitments of such an intensive course as this one amongst other personal commitments. In the past I've worked everyday outside of my year long college course, which was admittedly more intensive than my current university course, to fund myself then too. Having previously studied Biomedical Science but leaving after second year, I can genuinely say I have since spent every hour attempting to gain any experience, and teaching myself the ins and outs of the industry and anything else culturally. Seeing this as a trait in other highly successful people in the industry is definitely inspiring and helps me to work through the tough times where I don't feel like I can fit everything in.

Has anyone watched this? What did you think of the documentary and of Carine herself? 

#CarineRoitfeld #MademoiselleC #HighFashion #StephenGan #FashionCommunication #CR #CondeNaste #Vogue #CreativeDirection #EditorialFashion #FashionDocumentary #FashionBlogger #FashionBloggerUK

The FCP Course and Reflection // Native Nomad

After receiving the our first summative report with allocated trend, product and brand I have to admit I was both highly sceptical and felt rather disappointed with the trend I had received; Native Nomad. But after doing a large amount of research I found myself quite intrigued about the origins and issues surrounding it. Although not my personal style, I'm glad I was given a trend; it pushed me out of my boundaries, something I often try to do myself anyway.

Initial research on WGSN gave me the basic stepping stones. I had seen most of the films related such as The Good, The Bad and The Ugly, True Grit etc. But this gave me the chance to make comparisons through the trend. I also discovered a photographer I hadn't before known of. I often find myself more deeply moved by black and white imagery in photography; this has lead to my slight obsession with said film and photography. Ansel Adams stunning imagery of Colorado and New Mexico was a great discovery and research point. His imagery helped me to understand the link between clothing and functionality through the vast wilderness and almost surreal vulnerability, that would have been imposed on a person having to live in such an environment, he managed to capture in his work. 

The historical origins begin with the "Wild West" and Native American Indians. This research helped gain a wider understanding of any other influences involved, such as artists, musicians, photographers, brands and films.

The painter Fritz Scholder also led me into the cultural appropriation aspect of the trend. This brought the necessity to research the symbology of Native Americans and the reasons behind the use of colours and their own meanings. The heavy reliance on the trends warm earthy colour scheme and with the great number of runways featuring a multitude of native symbology, such as Valentino and SeptWolves, I found cultural appropriation becoming more and more of an important factor and even a necessity when researching the origins and influences in a trend. This is a point I will definitely be blogging on again as I progress with the trend.

Overall, I learnt that Fall 2016's take on the Nomadic trend is much more minimal, hard-wearing, and has more pixilated graphic patterns compared to previous years on the trend. Trimmed with furs, embroidered designs and rough edging; the utilitarian cuts combined with materials of a higher quality fabric, such as hard-wearing leathers, styled into multiple layers are perhaps the most wearable and understated as the trend has ever been. Its past has hinted at more bohemian, hippy vibes, with what has now become rather cliche. With this, the trend may not yet be as recognisable as I believe it has a heavy reliance on the consumers have a vast understanding of its origins. I think this will be a key point to research as I myself was in this same situation. In addition, I expect to find it hard finding said pieces, related to Fall 2016 rather than previous examples on the trend, on the high street. 
I'm excited to progress with this and see where it leads me with my Big Idea and Creative Concepts.

What are your thoughts on the trend, it's origins and the issues relating to it?

Charly xoxo

#NativeNomads #NativeAmericana #WGSN #AnselAdams #FritzScholder #FashionBlogger #FashionBloggerUK #FashionStudent #FashionCommunication

The FCP Course and Reflection // Corrine Day's Influence and Reflections

Having greatly researched Corinne Day (See previous post) I found her influence on our outcome extremely beneficiary. Personally, I tend to have an OCD level of attempting to attain polish and 'perfection'; and Day's visual aesthetics meant I was being pushed out of my comfort zone.

To say I was extremely excited for this shoot is an understatement. I, currently, am aiming for a future involving Creative Direction, editorials and photography. And this process was of great interest and enjoyment to me. And although, as all creatives do, I may in years to come look back and think how limited my own skills were, I am sure I will still be proud of what I and my team achieved in this shoot. 

Corinne Day’s “let’s Dance” shot in April’s 2004 of Vogue resulted in us choosing; accidental authenticity, modern femininity, de-glamourised, intimate friendship and mismatched. Having been given glasses, we decided to shoot in outdoor locations in keeping with Day’s own realism style of photography. The Belgrave Rooms, a phone box and in the street by student accommodation seemed result in the best shots from the vast number and locations we had. Using a selection of glasses we embellished ourselves allowed us to hit into the ‘modern femininity’ and ‘deglamourised’ through damage and being set in real locations, alongside the use of natural lighting. The research of Corinne and her recorded diary was what gave us an insight into her hard-edge photography style for our post-night out shoot.

Having gathered our equipment and props we assembled ourselves, and went through our plan of action whilst adding any embellishments or finishing touches. Whilst planning to stay open-minded, see where the shoot took us, we made use of the natural sunlight and environment for our, currently, limited skills and low budget was a large factor. As the shoot progressed, we tried numerous locations from under car wheels (and being greeted by the owners with confusion) to hanging items off the metal hangings inside a dimly lit car park with our wide array of props. Taking a number of photos amongst rubbish, cigarette butts, broken glass and a rather grimy phonebooth (at this point we realised the importance of carrying hand sanitiser with us on our travels...), we experimented with slightly differing concepts and layouts, which played to our advantage as the numerous outcomes meant we could fit in each of the key words without over-complicating any individual image. 

We went on indoors, and spontainiousy created a second concept. One which relayed more of Day's ...... tones and qualities. These consisted of me, sat on the bathroom floor amidst the scenes of a party with friends, sat by the toilet and with the glasses and glitter fallen inside the toilet. 

We ended up opting for the first concept's images over the second as it was much more in keeping with her own style AND the brief. However, I do prefer some of the images from the second shoot, which unfortunately were not chosen mainly due to the fact they wouldn't have printed well on paper compared to their onscreen images. 

Final images:
Image 1: Shot by Myself, Creative Direction Myself, Heather and Morgan, edited by myself
Image 3: Shot by Heather, Creative Direction Heather, Morgan and Myself, edited by myself
Image 4: Shot by Morgan, Creative Direction Myself, Heather and Morgan, edited by myself

With only being able to submit 3 images and having printed images 1-3, we found image 2 was not in keeping with the concept of the other photos and at the last minute decided to exchange it for image 4.
Overall I am extremely pleased and proud of our work. Although a shame we couldn't have perhaps submitted more photos, or the two different concepts, it was a great first experience.

Does anyone else have any thoughts on her work, or any of their own work hers has had a large influence on? 

#CreativeDirection #Photoshop #CorinneDay #FashionCommunication #Vogue #FashionPhotography #Editorial #FashionBlogger #FashionBloggerUK

Photography & Creative Direction // Corinne Day for Vogue

This shoot's creative concept relayed realism, through deconstructed glamour combined with female-visualised intimacy and a grunge colour palette containing flashes of secondary colours. With the model always sat slouched back, relaxed, looking down the camera, the shoot is juxtaposed against the concept of the dance-inspired dresses.

"Give a cool edge to the season's dance-inspired dresses."

Designers: Versace, Charity shops, Vintage shops, Alberta Ferreti, Alexander Mcqueen, Tom Ford, Manolo Blahnik, Roberto Cavalli, Yves Saint Lauren, Prada & Giorgio Armani...

Corinne Day, who although diagnosed with a brain tumour in 2004 went on to survive until 2010, and still shot many truly touching images throughout this time. Her shoots, always seemingly natural, with the grunge aesthetic of the late eighties to early nineties, often portray her female models in a more intimate, non-sexualised manner. They aren't placed, positioned or made up as 'seductive'. She uses natural poses, in shoots that are more 'behind-the-scenes' in location; ready-made scenes with mismatched props and a great deal of contrasting shapes, lighting and colours. This ability to capture an item or scene in a way that de-glamourises it, and makes it seem extremely natural and Real to the viewer is what makes her truly unique. 

This shoot, covering a similar theme but different Creative Concept, illustrates Day's ability to shoot such intimate photos while shows great contrast between itself and the previous, whilst staying true her own style.


#CorinneDay #Vogue #KatePhelan #CreativeConcept #LetsDance #FashionBloggers #FashionBloggersUK

Colourways // Suede Back When for How To Spend It

Photographer - Sandrine Dulermo and Michael Labica

#Photography #FashionPhotography #Colourways #Suede #SandrineDulermo #MichaelLabica

Icons & Influencers // Herb Ritts

There are no photographs in today's magazines that are anything like Herb Ritts.
Ritts' black and white images have always been amongst the collection of photographs I hold with utmost esteem. Having been set one to analyse and critique I thought I'd write a little more about him, his work, and my own thoughts surrounding.

"They're simple shots but they're just better than everybody else's. There aren't a lot of tricks. He's just better."

Photographing everyone and (initially) no one, models and singers, from Madonna to an undiscovered Richard Gere, to Naomi Campbell. The self-taught LA photographer rose to fame through chance, just as his style coincided with the zeitgeist of his time. High-concept Hollywood, the 'perfect' body and celebrities faces were everywhere. His death was so poetic it could almost be said to be perfectly appropriate for such a being.

"It is difficult to say which came first - Ritts or the gym cult - but they are the same thing."

Fred with Tyres, Hollywood, 1984

In Fred with Tyres, Ritts' wanted to shoot and create something more than just ‘the clothes’. This image was produced when he went against instructions received and found clothes for shooting himself. The daring images were used as the advertisement for jeans; the shock factor drew the attention of the audience to the brand, becoming his most successful advertisements of the early eighties. Sex sells and this image, unlike any of the era, became iconic because of this and the portrayal of an almost homoerotic image. His inspirations drew from classical depictions of beauty by the Greek, fantasy, in more unconventional settings, is present in this image. It was through his work that male models became more prominent in the fashion industry. 

Vladimir I, Hollywood 1990
Elizabeth Taylor, Malibu 1991
Jack Nicholson I, London 1988
Pants (Back View), Los Angeles 1988

Brigitte Nielsen with Netting, Malibu 1987

Dijon with Octopus, Hollywood 1989
Pierre & Yuri, Los Angeles 1999

Tony in White, Hollywood 1988
The King of anti-glamour, choosing to shoot celebrities outdoors in the natural environment in natural lighting, was how so much life was brought into his pictures. Herb drew on the elemental locations; where earth, wind, fire and air combined. And his placement of shadows rather than placement of light. All this, alongside the use of hard light in the models' eyes,  was what made his work like no other. 
"He was fluent in Los Angeles. It was just an innate part of him and his personality, from having grown up here where he knew at certain times of the year the light had a little softness or it was a little harder."
His deep understanding of both painting and sculpture is evident in his work. With ever varying textures, and a strong sense of sexuality running through everything he touched, Herb still kept it so it was about the lines of the body to create a thing of beauty rather than a pornographic image.


#HerbRitts #LosAngeles #Photography #FashionBloggers #FashionBloggersUK

Influencers // Catherine Deneuve

There numerous factors I concider when looking for icons who inspire both professionally, in beauty and fashion, and spiritually, that determine my love and obsession. From both the past and present I search for those who I dream to covet, those that remind hold or carry myself in such a way, to keep class and grace as the upmost importance in a woman, next to intelligence. Or remind me to keep my mind open to new pathways of thought, and can teach me their own life lessons in business, fashion, art, beauty, or any other venture. 
When it comes to admiring people, they may be someone I admire and covet but that does not necessarily mean I idolise them. They cannot simply 'be beautiful' but must exhude something special, instill inner confidence. 

Catherine Deneuve is one of those women, to me, who does just that. The Parisian actress, while having one of the most exquisite faces, still holds an incredible sense of dignity. 

Unexpectedly, the first film I ever watched Deneuve in was Roman Polanski's 'Repulsion', where she plays a mentally unstable girl with low self-confidence and issues drive her to the point of madness. Then the other well known films such as Luis Bunel's Belle de Jour and Francois Truffaut's The Last Metro.

Visually, I am a huge fan of any woman who can look just as sensual with their hair piled up on the beach in an oversized jumper, as when she is made up, in a Givenchy dress and dripping in Harry Winston diamonds. Catherine epitomises this. yes, these woman are beautiful regardless but what makes them so beautiful is that they appear to be truly comfortable in their own skin without succumbing to the pressures of heavy makeup or tight clothes and surely this is the kind of beauty that we aught to want our daughters to admire and the kind of beauty that we believe is unhealthy to aspire to.

Things have changed, certainly; we all know almost anybody can be 'famous' now and the word celebrity really does scorn the genuine stars of the industry amongst Instagram filters and contouring. Remember that diamonds do exist amongst the rough.


#CatherineDeneuve #FashionBlogger #BeautyBlogger #RomanPolanski #LuisBunel #FrancoisTruffaut

Documentaries // Mapplethorpe - Look At The Pictures

Robert Mapplethorpe is amongst not only what I see as the top class of photographers, but one of the icons that has acted as an influence to push my opinions and thoughts out of my comfort zone )old Hollywood glamour and the jazz age). His work, even though produced in the 70s and 80s is to me still at the height of modernity and  relevance.

In September 1989 Robert's exhibition was highly controversially closed and sent to trial, in what went as unacknowledged as Art.

Mapplethorpe made something out of his polaroids. 
He encorporated them into a type of Art. 
Which was something no one was doing.

He always wanted to go further. 
He was glamourising the penis.

Robert was a Devil and an Angel.
He was reliant on his charm.

Was he ambitious?
..... That is an enormous understatement.

Although the documentary maker seemed more obsessed with Mapplethorpe's explicit photographs and journey into sadomasochism, and little was shown on his lesser known series, such as his flower imagery and portraits, I did find the imagery displayed entirely powerful. This was a compelling view of Mapplethorpe that did'nt shy away from his narcissism, sexual bravado and a definite mean streak. Tracing his birth and childhood right through to his death of AIDS in 1989, using interviews from friends, family, models and ex-lovers, viewing this highlighted how Robert's photography become contemporary fine art; he had bold vision that ignited a culture war I believe is still raging today. 


#RobertMapplethorpe #Photography #LookAtThePictures #FashionDocumentary #PhotographyDocumentary