HIGH FASHION AND COUTURE // Maison Margiela Artisanal Couture Spring 2017

Primarily, I'm working towards a career, certainly linked if not wholly, in high fashion and luxury; whichever avenue I decide to follow through with at the start of my career. So I'd like to try talk more about this level in the industry.

Maison Margiela isn't a exactly a house that is directly alongside my own personal style, but I am absolutely a fan of Galliano's progressive work for the Artisanal line and this season's creativity level was really rather refreshing compared to that of other houses. Being a man not afraid to cause a raucous and follow off onto great tangents in order to create otherworldly pieces, the Picasso-esque tulle and crocheted faces worked into the deconstructed garments were as prolific as I have seen for really quite a long time in all honesty.

In the industry at current there are certainly lots of collaborations and innovative new fabrication and construction processes pushing in a new direction, but I find myself craving to see excessing creativity as the years progress. Certainly the collections often carry the boundary-pushing issues facing society and cultures of the world; but lack of personalities, not afraid of criticism or upsetting their business financials, with unparalleled talents, like that of Alexander McQueen, are creating an ever growing gap in the industry. I understand that there is no point in creating pieces that won't sell, but couture itself is rarely sold and the lines are used more as advertising for the brand than anything. So surely these are the catwalks in which the 'craziest' designs and pieces can be created, acting as even greater advertising if successful in the boundary pushing garments. And without such designs there is much less of a pressure for other designers to follow suit in anarchistic designs.

McQueen's work is referenced almost every season despite its often lack of wearability. It changed what fashion meant. I cannot say I've seen many designers with this kind of controversy and subversiveness, and although I'll readily admit Galliano certainly isn't at that level of McQueen, his recent work here is certainly what I view as a step in the right direction.

And on that note I should probably go into more detail of the Seasons' line:

Like many of us, Galliano is intrigued by the role of social media and it's increasing imposition on not just our daily lives, but on our work and visual communication. App filters layered onto photos creating an, ultimately, altering reality is translated in Spring 2017 into his own form of applications - 'high-skill haute-worthy techniques'. Appropriating the concept for large, bold graphics using fabrics and layering of unlikely pieces, such as wool and lace "like a mille-feuille", Galliano cut away various layers, thus creating surface depth and texture in the garments.

“All these advancements, I just wonder if we are all at the moment genetically prepared to absorb so much information...”

A video posted by Suzy Menkes (@suzymenkesvogue) on

“...I’m grateful to know how important it is to live in the present.” Galliano

His vast historical knowledge and deep emotion, combining with his penchant for deconstruction and reconstruction, Galliano created and made use of a new technique he has named "décortiqué" in order to get to the core of the garment, "a memory of it". Furthermore, this season saw his return to the use of the bias cut, of which is iconographic of his own designs, on a slipdress and a couple of the skirts. The facial imagery made me think back to Jacquemus' Fall 2015 beauty look, and even Givenchy's of the Spring 2016.

Double Face no. 30, Sebastien for Jacquemus AW 2015           Pat Mcgraph for Givenchy SS 2016

Image/collage created by myself

Did anyone else see Maison Margiela Artisian Spring 2017? What are your opinions on these issues?


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